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Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Jack's canyonIf you go to Winslow, AZ then make a left and drive to the middle of nowhere for 30 miles, take a right at a random gate
to a dirt road (the only way you know you're in the right place is the climbing stickers on the sign) and take that back
a ways you'll see endless desert. If you take the right trail it brings you into a canyon with spectacular climbing.
I didn't take the correct road because I followed the directions... which are wrong. I had a great time 4 wheeling
(in a 2wd van)in the middle of the night only to find a dead end. I guess I'll sleep here for the night then find
the sign with the climbing stickers on it. 5:30 am I find my campsite and friends. After some warming up we get
on Heart Shaped Box which is a 5.12b (and Eric's project). The name comes from a heart shaped hueco mid way up.
Superb weather allowed Eric to send his project and me to get it on the 2nd go. Bitchin. Next up is Swiss Arete,
a short but very overhung, powerful climb with a weird campus start. Eric was kind enough to work out all the tricky
moves so I could flash it. Thanks Eric. You'll get 'er next time! A couple new pictures are up.
5:29 pm pdt
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Nothing really new but read anyway (Sue - I think you're the only one that does)I eat. I drink. I climb. I work. Not really much else. It's almost like I enjoy each
of those things. Yes - even work. Not very many people get to create lasers to put on sharks' heads I bet.
Apparently I'm the fastest person I know. Faster that a car racer. Faster than a jet pilot.
I'm a government employee... I get off at 5:00 and I'm home by 3:00.
Since the last post I've been
to Diablo, White Rock, El Rito and I'm headed to Jack's Canyon (AZ) this weekend. I got a new pair of climbing
shoes for $30 off Steep and Cheap. China is awesome (aside from the communism detail). The best part... they give
you cooking directions: Preheat oven to 225F, place in middle rack for 3 minutes. Put on shoes for 2 minutes.
They are now broken in. Brilliant.
In traveling news I'm going to Bend for the 4th of July, then to Louisville,
then to Fredericksburg, VA, then to LA. I hope work isn't going to get in the way of climbing. That would
be a shame.
Word of the day: Pancake. Like the first pancake you make, the first hookup after a relationship
is poor, mishapen and not that great... but good enough.
Speaking of food I just had the best thing I've ever
put in my mouth. If you've had my specialty salsa (fresca-like with mango...) - put that on grilled chicken.
Holy balls it's good.
6:38 pm pdt
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
The setupI think I was drinking when I wrote the last post. Hmm.
Well I feel like I've finally settled in.
I'm in a routine now where I bike to work most days. Although not in spandex I feel a bit like a bag of rainbows.
Work is great now that I have a computer. I'm kicking ass - assigned as PI (principle investigator) to a research
project and have already briefed upper management (typically done by people 20 years older than me).
In
the climbing world I've been to The Enchanted tower which is a 100 ft overhanging tower that you can climb on three sides.
Pretty bitchin. I also went to El Rito with Mariah which is a lot like climbing on 18th century cobblestone roads turned
on end (with some overhang to boot). This surprisingly solid rock tore up my fingers but I'm excited to go back.
A few new pictures are up.
In other news Herschel space telescope is launching tomorrow. It'll
be the largest space telescope up there, dwarfing Hubble.
Oh - and you should watch Slumdog Millionaire.
Likely the best movie I've seen in 5 years.
5:40 pm pdt
Sunday, April 26, 2009
latest and least greatestIt has became apparent that the governement works a little differently than I would hope. Two weeks in and I still
do not have access to a computer. Balls. On the plus side I have a small indication of what I'll be doing which
all seems to be pretty good work. Intersting things happen daily but every once in a while something stands out that
makes you ponder a little. this recent episode involvees a bag-lady that I spotted outside a local pub. We happened
to catch up to her later as we were walking home. She had stepped off the sidewalk to a small sandy area and was lifting
up her skirt. i wondered what this crazy woman could possibly be doing. Turns out she was urinating standing perfectly
verticle, on the side of hte sidewalk, perfectly ignorant of her actions. I've also finished building my projectnon
screen so movies should be awesome. I'm ugly. Wes
12:58 am pdt
Monday, April 13, 2009
First day in prisonWell I have a sweet place to live that's a stone's throw away from the little side 'downtown' where I can
pretty much longboard to anything I need. Bitchin. I had my first day of work. Aside from my supervisor
being missing, his replacement having no idea who I was or what he was supposed to do with me, my HR representative stuck
in Florida and a checklist of paperwork to fill out that made little to no sense, I had a pretty good day. Tomorrow...
I find the climbing gym on base. Very important. I also go to check out a used roadbike for sale in order to
ride the 13.5 miles into work. What's the hardest thing about being a road-biker? Telling your mom you're
gay.
9:21 pm pdt
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