It's raining today so I thought I'd kill a little time on here by telling a few stories:

This guy Daniel comes in from Washington and walks into town to get some food.  Out of nowhere he gets bit right in the ankle by a dog.  Now this is Mexico and dogs run around in packs, no vaccines, no owners so the chances of getting bit by a rabid dog are much higher here.  So here is Daniel, 24 hours into Mexico getting told that there are no symptoms for rabies for about 16 days, and by the time symptoms show up... you're a gonner.  He goes to a gynecologist (it's the only doctor that speaks english) to get a medical opinion... he's in today getting shots. 
Daniel goes out climbing with Reed and me and pulls out his chalk bag... turns out it was Reed's bag (he had never met Daniel until he was down here).  Reed left it in Washington and Daniel found it.  Small world.

I met an older couple from Alberta.  I asked where abouts... they said just outside of Bamff National Park - so I say "Do you know Doug and Caroline?"  They say "Oh yeah - I've been climbing off and on with them for 30 years"  Small world.

I started working a 5.12a climb about 4 days ago called Celestial Omnibus.  Apparently this climb has been in a bunch of magazines because of the awesome exposure and tufa formations (the ribs and stalactites formed by water dripping over limestone).  To get to the bottom of this climb you have to climb a crappy crappy dangerous 5.11a then traverse across some fixed lines to the belay station.  My first run I get about 5 or 6 clips up and have no gas to finish.  Reed and Alisha go up with the same results.  Day one goes without even finishing.  We leave the ropes to avoid the crap climb the next morning.  Alisha then makes a run up, hanging several times but finishing off the last two bolts and clipping the anchors.  The next two days are spent top-roping the climb to figure out the moves.  We have enough energy for about 2 burns in the morning and one or two in the afternoon.  Fourth day we pull the rope to start lead climbing again.  Alisha falls at the crux.  Reed falls at the crux.  I make a run and the crux feels ok... I'm hanging on for dear life with all my weight on a hold that's big enough for a half a finger pad for three fingers.  Cross, bump... big hold.  Happy times.  I start moving through the next sequence.  Gaston, lie-back, tufa pinch, jug, clip the next bolt - the rest should come in.  I go for the next hold... nothing and have to come down to the sloper where I start sliding off because of wet hands (wet tufa and sweat).  Sliding, sliding sliding I can't make the hold... I fall with just the anchors to clip.  Disaster.  Reed and Alisha make another burn on lead - each getting shut down at the hard crux.  I make another run but I'm just not feeling it so I lower off.  As I'm lowering I'm thinking it'll be the last time for a couple days to hit this (need some rest days).  I felt tired but I decide to go again.  The sequence was well rehearsed by now - I pull through the crux and the next sequence.  I alter my hand position on the sloper by about an inch and change my feet position.  Go for the cross/pinch... it's wet and doesn't feel great but I pinch the crap out of it and crank, pinch, feet up, pinch pinch, feet up, pinch... slip!  re-grab, pinch pinch - clip the anchors.  Redpoint on the most aesthetically appealing, most powerful, most enjoyable climb I've done to date!  Tequila shots all around.

The land around the park is owned by the Ojito - essentially a Mexican tribe.  Noberto lives at the gate and collects 10 pesos a day for admission so the Ojito can maintain the land.  Noberto is an interesting fellow.  He lived in California and Wisconsin for some time but decided he like Mexico better.  Now he sleeps in this rickety shack about the size of a small moving van.  It's supported unevenly by a couple cement blocks and 2x4's.  He has a small window by his bed so he can collect the 10 pesos without getting up, which I imagine is quite a chore when the scales tip at about 350 lbs.  Sometimes you'll see him lower a jug of piss from the window.  It's best to give him a little time when you see the jug.  Sometimes you'll see him sitting in a chair banded together and repaired with wire and mesquite sticks.  He graciously sets his pornographic novel down to chat about the weather and astronomy.  Each day he asks for our daily fee even though we've paid for a long term pass.  I say "Me llamo Wes y mi amigo Reed"  In a gleeful tone he replies "Ahhh Wes, Reed - como estan?"  Each day we remind him.  Each day he forgets and then is happy to discover we are his friends that come by every day.

You can use (505)908-9358 while I'm down in Mexico if you want to call.