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Wednesday, November 19, 2008

lo siento
A few people have written asking if I'm still alive... yes!  Living well as always.  I got a new climb called Guppie - 5.12b within 4 tries but I screwed up my fingers due to a big lunge into a constricting slot.  I rested for about 3 days and then went to do Time Wave Zero - a 23 pitch 5.12a (about 2200 verticle feet).  Reed and I started at dawn and were sprinting through the easier pitches with a little simul-climbing.  We were making great time but it was very hot that day so Reed stopped in a little cave at the top of the 17th pitch.  As he got up we saw his ATC (belay device) fling off and go tumbling down the hill.  After figuring out how to tie a munter hitch we decided to get back down, eliminating our summit possibility.  We will have to try again... which may be a blessing because it will be better weather and I will be able to use all my fingers this time. 
Gary Hicks came in to visit - we've been having a great time.  He got his hardest climb ever - 5.11b and has been demolishing his fingers.  One night we were looking at the full moon and decided to climb 12 pitches (1200 ft) under moonlight.  We even brought a bottle of wine for the summit (at about 4 am).  The summit has a log of climbers and some random articles people have left... we left a wine cork!  We also threw a party - it was a really fun bbq with about 30 climbers then we went to this pit were a local band happened to be playing.  They even let some of our friends sing while they played music from US bands!  We're no planning a pig roast for this weekend...
We just got back late last night from El Salto - about 3 hours away with some of the most amazing rock formation I've ever climbed.  There is one where you have to sit down on this tufa to finish the climb correctly!  We climbed this 5.12d that is basically a ribbon of rock that sticks out from the wall about 8 to 15 inches and is 4 to 10 inches wide.  You basically have to pinch and monkey hump your way up... so cool.  Gary and I tried to find this other cave in the area but we had to swim across this cold cold water then run in the shade shirtless across a river bed for a few kilometers... we never found it.  Oliver had an adventure getting stuck crossing a river.  Luckily somebody came and pulled us out.  On the way back out I just backed up into the trees... got a helluva run and let momentum carry me through... 2 wheel drive is awesome!

Lots of pictures and videos to come... it'll take me a little time.
7:32 am pst


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