|
Friday, January 30, 2009
New job!After months of tailing a job I've finally got the offer and accepted as a "Research Physicist" at the Air Force
Research Lab in Albuquerque! I couldn't be happier! In other news the two new routes have been finished
that I've been working on with Simeon, Jake and Rick. They should go at about 5.12a and 5.12c but we won't know
until they're sent! It's pretty cool to be hanging 200 ft. off the deck with a hammer-drill in one hand and
an array of bolts, hangers, cleaning tools and trad gear hanging off the belt trying to find the right spot to put the bolts
for a fun (and safe) climb. I could get used to this. The best part is trundling big rocks and watching them smash
on the rock below, exploding outward as though it had a fuse. I watched one rock (from a climb lower on the wall) come
bouncing through the desert demolishing anything it it's path. It was a motorcycle size boulder that traveled about
400 yards before breaking apart and coming to a halt... right on the trail. Good times. I still haven't gotten
back on my projects but I did onsight another 5.12a (first pitch of Battle Royale). Adam wrote up a little think on climbing.com
about us... check out http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/el_potrero_chico_nuevo_leon_mexico/I'm now making plans to climb in southern Mexico around Guadalajara, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosi and Colima.
More on that later. I have some pictures to get up but somehow it's hard to find time even when you're unemployed.
4:55 pm pst
Sunday, January 11, 2009
The good and the badI've been getting a little discouraged on climbing lately - not climbing my projects but recently I've had some
really good days! I onsighted the Devil's Toungue - a really cool 5.12a then killed Zuma Dawg an overbolted 5.12a.
I went out in Monterrey with Ralph (local bolter), Jaime, Alex and Connie (local pros) then woke up and went bouldering in
a totally undeveloped tufa cave. This place was sooo cool. Everything was brand new. I got first ascent
of a V3-ish climb we're calling Ho's before Bros (because our ride left us). The place replenished my desire
to climb hard so I'm looking at heading south to kill some more rock. After bouldering we came back to the
Potrero and threw Ralph a birthday party at my place complete with a bonfire, tequila, caguamas and food from Edgardo's
mom. Helluva night. On another note... my job is still probably 2 months out... not good.
7:54 am pst
Friday, January 2, 2009
GiggidyChristmas was mostly uneventful but I did have a pretty kick-ass dinner with Alicia (Simeon's girlfriend) who is an amazing
cook, whipping out Mexican cuisine like it was her job.
Simeon and I organized a trail maintenance day and had
about 10 people show so we got quite a bit of work done in a short amount of time. As we ran out of rebar and wood people
were getting tired. I was able to get free dinners for everybody that worked from the local restaraunts. The community
around here is definitely interested in helping eachother out.
New Year's was pretty cool but the lady running
Homero's (where the big party is every year) decided that charging $15 for an entrance was a good idea. So what
did we do? We built a fire on the terrace of Chon's and had our own party complete with fire dancers.
I met Loren, Chris, Cam and Kelly from Illinois who were all strong climbers and they have a local deep water
soloing place that I can't wait to try out.
As for climbing... I got Mr. Big, a 5.12b but I still have yet
to get my projects (or even get on them). Soooo.... still waiting to get a 5.12c for the first time. On the plus
(or minus) side, I still haven't heard back about the job so I still have time to get to them.
7:13 am pst
|