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Thursday, February 26, 2009

Going south
In the last days of Potrero I was able to send the second of three new routes put up.  This one is called Slam Hound 5.12c.  The previous was named Hidalgo Strangler which is a story all by itself.

I went south with Simeon, Alicia, Rick, Mariah, Alisha, Kyber and Jason to Puete De Dios (Bridge of God).  Excellent climbing with two fantastic 5.11b climbs and a 5.12b horizontal roof that I finally got the second day (video to come).  After a few days with no shower Mariah and I went further south parting with the Potrero crew and arrived in Guanajuato. 

Guanajuato is a very European town with subterranian roadways and cobblestone streets.  To boot there is some climbing although the selection was very limited and we had no guide so we just picked a route and hoped we could make it through.  Aside from loose tuff (compressed volcanic ash) and hard first clips we had a great day climbing.  The motorcycle is proving to be very useful in the crowded streets and staying in the van on the outskirts of town.  Pictures to come soon but internet time isn't a big priority...

We're heading to Guadalajara tomorrow for more established (and safer) climbing!
1:50 pm pst

Monday, February 9, 2009

Project sent!
I got the first free ascent of one of the new routes we put up!  The climb is freakin cool.  Thanks to Kyber I was able to climb through the crux easier.  Thanks to some creative rests I sent the climb.  There's a sketchy no-hands rest, a place to stab your shoulder into sharp rock and if you press hard enough with your legs... you can nearly take your hands off (I still have bruises from that one) and a 'chicken wing' up higher.  35 meters of amazing climbing!  I think it goes at 5.12b or c but others need to climb it for a concensus.  I'm still looking for a name for the route... Hueco Spanks, Casual Alcoholism, Blumkin... too many good names!  Send me an email with suggestions/votes.
A few more pictures are up (but not many).
9:43 am pst


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