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Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Jack's canyon

If you go to Winslow, AZ then make a left and drive to the middle of nowhere for 30 miles, take a right at a random gate to a dirt road (the only way you know you're in the right place is the climbing stickers on the sign) and take that back a ways you'll see endless desert.  If you take the right trail it brings you into a canyon with spectacular climbing.  I didn't take the correct road because I followed the directions... which are wrong.  I had a great time 4 wheeling (in a 2wd van)in the middle of the night only to find a dead end.  I guess I'll sleep here for the night then find the sign with the climbing stickers on it.
5:30 am I find my campsite and friends.  After some warming up we get on Heart Shaped Box which is a 5.12b (and Eric's project).  The name comes from a heart shaped hueco mid way up.  Superb weather allowed Eric to send his project and me to get it on the 2nd go.  Bitchin.  Next up is Swiss Arete, a short but very overhung, powerful climb with a weird campus start.  Eric was kind enough to work out all the tricky moves so I could flash it.  Thanks Eric.  You'll get 'er next time!
A couple new pictures are up.

5:29 pm pdt

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Nothing really new but read anyway (Sue - I think you're the only one that does)

I eat.  I drink.  I climb.  I work.  Not really much else.  It's almost like I enjoy each of those things.  Yes - even work.  Not very many people get to create lasers to put on sharks' heads I bet. 

Apparently I'm the fastest person I know.  Faster that a car racer.  Faster than a jet pilot.  I'm a government employee... I get off at 5:00 and I'm home by 3:00.

Since the last post I've been to Diablo, White Rock, El Rito and I'm headed to Jack's Canyon (AZ) this weekend.  I got a new pair of climbing shoes for $30 off Steep and Cheap.  China is awesome (aside from the communism detail).  The best part... they give you cooking directions:  Preheat oven to 225F, place in middle rack for 3 minutes.  Put on shoes for 2 minutes.  They are now broken in.  Brilliant.

In traveling news I'm going to Bend for the 4th of July, then to Louisville, then to Fredericksburg, VA, then to LA.  I hope work isn't going to get in the way of climbing.  That would be a shame.

Word of the day:  Pancake.  Like the first pancake you make, the first hookup after a relationship is poor, mishapen and not that great... but good enough.

Speaking of food I just had the best thing I've ever put in my mouth.  If you've had my specialty salsa (fresca-like with mango...) - put that on grilled chicken.  Holy balls it's good.

6:38 pm pdt


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