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Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Jack's canyonIf you go to Winslow, AZ then make a left and drive to the middle of nowhere for 30 miles, take a right at a random gate
to a dirt road (the only way you know you're in the right place is the climbing stickers on the sign) and take that back
a ways you'll see endless desert. If you take the right trail it brings you into a canyon with spectacular climbing.
I didn't take the correct road because I followed the directions... which are wrong. I had a great time 4 wheeling
(in a 2wd van)in the middle of the night only to find a dead end. I guess I'll sleep here for the night then find
the sign with the climbing stickers on it. 5:30 am I find my campsite and friends. After some warming up we get
on Heart Shaped Box which is a 5.12b (and Eric's project). The name comes from a heart shaped hueco mid way up.
Superb weather allowed Eric to send his project and me to get it on the 2nd go. Bitchin. Next up is Swiss Arete,
a short but very overhung, powerful climb with a weird campus start. Eric was kind enough to work out all the tricky
moves so I could flash it. Thanks Eric. You'll get 'er next time! A couple new pictures are up.
5:29 pm pdt
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Nothing really new but read anyway (Sue - I think you're the only one that does)I eat. I drink. I climb. I work. Not really much else. It's almost like I enjoy each
of those things. Yes - even work. Not very many people get to create lasers to put on sharks' heads I bet.
Apparently I'm the fastest person I know. Faster that a car racer. Faster than a jet pilot.
I'm a government employee... I get off at 5:00 and I'm home by 3:00.
Since the last post I've been
to Diablo, White Rock, El Rito and I'm headed to Jack's Canyon (AZ) this weekend. I got a new pair of climbing
shoes for $30 off Steep and Cheap. China is awesome (aside from the communism detail). The best part... they give
you cooking directions: Preheat oven to 225F, place in middle rack for 3 minutes. Put on shoes for 2 minutes.
They are now broken in. Brilliant.
In traveling news I'm going to Bend for the 4th of July, then to Louisville,
then to Fredericksburg, VA, then to LA. I hope work isn't going to get in the way of climbing. That would
be a shame.
Word of the day: Pancake. Like the first pancake you make, the first hookup after a relationship
is poor, mishapen and not that great... but good enough.
Speaking of food I just had the best thing I've ever
put in my mouth. If you've had my specialty salsa (fresca-like with mango...) - put that on grilled chicken.
Holy balls it's good.
6:38 pm pdt
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