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Friday, October 15, 2010
Greece has filled me with desire to climb professionally full time, but with none of the skills to get there. Regardless I
spent an amazing 2 weeks on Kalymnos island wrestling with tufas and stalactites. A tufa is a slight variation of the
limestone stalactite, in which it creates features like giant fins or mushrooms, but does not fully separate and come down
like a cone, which is a stalactite. Abq to Atlanta,overnight to Athens, jumper to Kos island, ferry to Kalymnos,
bus to Massouri. Rugged. On the ferry in we met a couple on their honeymoon, Josh and Daphni. They're
going climbing for their honeymoon. Giant bag of awesome. We unpack and made our way up to a wall above town called
Panorma. Stemming between tufas is new. Is it legal to jam your back into a tufa to rest? Over the next
two weeks we climbed at Panorama, Spartacus, Kalydna, Sikati Cave, Seaside Kitchen, Arhi, Vathy, and Grande Grotta.
Many of those by scooter, but some were a walk from the B&B. Noteable sends were: Aeolia 7a+ with extension
- OS - it's a tufa dihedral (I'm fully alienating those without climber jargon now) Kerveros 7a - OS - I think
my favorite route there Spartacus 7b+ Kaly Nikhla extension 7b OS - Gladiator 7b Les Pirates de Sikati
7a+ Sisphus Jr 7a+ Elia 7b Aegialis 7c - 3rd go - had to break out knee pads for this one. Ivi 7b OS DNA 7a+ OS Aphrodite 7a+ OS Tufantastic 7b+ OS - 40 m tufa adventure with a tough undercling crux. Trela
7a OS (quick translation, 7a+ = 5.12a, 7b = 5.12b, 7b+ = 5.12c, 7c = 5.12d, OS = onsight) more later...
7:59 pm pdt
RRG, and Loose CannonLots to catch up on... On my last message I alluded to a project - which I finally got, and was my first 5.13b.
I drank whiskey. It's called Loose Cannon at the Dungeon. Basically felt impossible the first two goes on
it. I couldn't even pull the crux consistently after a hang, and there's not-so-easy 5.12 climbing to get there.
Then at the finish there's a V5 that feels like if my feet slip I'll just slam my face into the wall and take a sketchy
sideways fall from there. But I did it, and drank whiskey. Then I went to Red River Gorge in Kentucky.
The amazing sandstone there just crushed me four days in a row. I brought back a pet, a sliver in my finger I called
Hank. Hank got mad and swelled up my finger until I went to the hospital. Hank ruined my training for Greece.
7:30 pm pdt
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